“Yankee Doodle in a kettle-” The Evolution of Clam Chowder

“First lay some Onions to keep the Pork from burning,

Because in Chouder there can be no turning;

Then lay some Pork in Slices very thin,

Thus you in Chouder always must begin.

Next lay some Fish cut crossways very nice

Then season well with Pepper, Salt, and Spice;

Parsley, Sweet-Marjoram, Savory and Thyme;

Then Biscuit next which must be soak'd some Time.

Thus your Foundation laid, you will be able

To raise a Chouder, high as Tower of Babel…”

Today is National Clam Chowder day, and believe it or not, this is the first printed recipe for “chowder;” published in 1751 in the Boston Evening Post. While not yet evolved into the trademark of New England cuisine it is fated to be, it is still a recognizable ancestor.  

By this time, a “chouder” had meant many things to many people. The term chowder most likely originates from the French chaudière, meaning kettle or cauldron. It was a practice of French fishermen to dump a portion of their catch into a communal pot a the end of the day, and this seafood hodge-podge became a staple of maritime cuisine. Another theory is that the root of the word is jowter, an English name for a fishmonger. Wherever the name originated, it was a simple dish with one defining characteristic: seafood. 

British colonists arriving in New England may have already known how to prepare this one-pot dish, or it may have been a little something they picked up from their French neighbors in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. The chowders they made (like the one in the recipe above) would have initially been fish-focused dishes. Despite the abundance of shellfish, European colonists saw them as a last resort and were hesitant to add them to their diet. In those days, prisoners and servants dined on lobster, and pigs and cattle feasted on clams. I bet those same folks would have a conniption if they saw a bill from a modern seafood market.

Necessity eventually brought shellfish into the colonists’ diet, but it would still be some time until it was embraced. While New England Europeans turned up their noses at what they considered humble fare, humans have been feasting on shellfish for around 165,000 years. Even though late to the game, shellfish of every kind eventually made it into New Englander’s diet; so much so that today it is defined by it. 

Once clams made it into chowder, there was no taking them out. “Clam chowdaah” has become one of the most recognizable staples of New England cuisine, with variations spreading across the coastline. While arguably the most famous version is made with cream, potatoes, pork, and of course, clams, there is the tomato-based Manhattan chowder to contend with, as well as the broth-based Rhode Island version. 

These variations are all hotly contested, however, and individuals from each region will defend their own with religious zeal. This controversy around who makes the clam chowder-iest clam chowder was so polarizing that a politician from Maine attempted to make it illegal to add tomatoes to a chowder. While he never succeeded, the lines between those who prefer Manhattan and those who prefer New England clam chowder are still clearly drawn.

Today, clam chowder can be found all over the United States, not just in coastal New England. Surprisingly, some of the best chowder is said to be served up in a tiny outpost in Cedar Key, Florida. Here, on the very edge of the Gulf Coast, sits Tony’s Seafood Restaurant. Diners at Tony’s can feast on local seafood, but what brings everyone back is the award-winning clam chowder. Chef Eric Jungklaus’ recipe has won the Knorr Great Chowder Cook-Off in Rhode Island three times, and visitors from all over make a point to stop and taste the champion concoction.

Since I am much closer to Cedar Key than Maine, I decided to take the two-hour trek and find out for myself what “real” New England clam chowder was all about. I was impressed by how much flavor it had-my only other experience had been with the overly thick and bland “chunky” version out of a can. I sat beside a couple from New England (can’t hide that accent) that was pleasantly surprised at how well the chowder compared to their own version. Still, they said, there is nothing like getting your own fresh hogs (quahog clams), shucking them open, pouring the juice into a bucket, and making a pot of chowder yourself.

If you live in the South and can’t get your hands on fresh clams or make the drive to Cedar Key, you can still celebrate with Tony’s chowder, which has been canned and now lines the shelves at Publix.